No doubt about it

Today we are off on an overnight boat trip to Doubtful Sound, which is much less visited than Milford Sound as it is more difficult to get to.  We meet 4 other couples at the harbour who we will be traveling with – from Holland, the UK, Australia and Canada, so a mixed bunch with everyone being very nice and friendly.  We are all laden with our overnight bags and there is a distinctive clink in each as the boat is BYO!

After collecting our lunch boxes we board our first boat across Lake Manapouri with some very impressive scenery on the way. 

The view on Lake Manapouri

We arrive at West Arm on the other side of Lake Manipouri where a Hydroelectric power station was built during the 1950s, virtually all underground, and have a quick look around the DOC exhibition.  New Zealand is known to be a very environmental country (ticks all of Mrs M’s boxes!) and when the power station was built there was a huge campaign to raise environmental awareness and minimise the environmental impacts, including preventing the initial plan to raise Lake levels at Manipouri by 30m which would have had a massive impact on scenery and the fragile ecology of the area.  One of the reasons that Doubtful Sound is more accessible now is due to the single track road built between Doubtful Sound and the power station during the construction phase.

We are collected by Captain Smiley (otherwise known as John), board the bus for the hours journey up and over the Wilmot Pass to get to the Sound.  We stop off at the exit tunnels for the power station and he tells us that the second tunnel took twice as long to build as the first due to a geological error after someone chose the wrong drilling rig for the granodiorite strata.  John also describes the environmental restoration which was undertaken around the tunnel exit points as part of the project – double thumbs up from Mrs M!

First view of Doubtful Sound

We arrive at our boat ‘The Southern Star’ and are met by Leyton (from Ireland) and Heather (a Kiwi), the cabin crew for our trip.  On we get and off we go cruising out onto the Sound. 

Doubtful Sound is totally different from Milford Sound and today the sun is out so it is even more contrasting.  We are the only boat on the Sound, and when the boat engines are tuned off the quietness and stillness surrounding us are amazing – it is a far cry from our busy lives in London.

Quiet and still

As we pass through the Sound, dolphins are spotted and they start to swim along side us literally playing with the boat – it is great fun to watch!

We head towards the Thompson Sound, which is a separate arm off Doubtful and go to check the Crayfish pots.  

Dinner...

Six crayfish have been caught – they are enormous!  Three are kept for tea and the remaining lucky three live to swim another day, after being given their freedom.

As late afternoon approaches it is announced by Captain John (still smiling) that in order to have dinner tonight we need to catch it!  Leyton duly sets up the fishing rods and the men on the boat all rise up to the challenge.  Now I’m sure you would all agree that those of you that know Mr M, would insist that he is not in the least bit competitive and also extremely modest when he wins at something. After two hours of fishing the fish bucket is getting very full and he is duly crowned the winner and of course is very gracious in his wining, especially given we are slightly younger than the other couples!

Blue cod - more dinner

However the most important thing after the fishing competition is that we will eat well tonight!

After a few of the couples go for some kayaking it is time for our much anticipated dinner.  Heather and Leyton have done an amazing job and we dine like kings on freshly caught blue cod, tarakihi, grilled crayfish and then an amazing buffet of roast chicken, roast lamb with various salads and roast vegetables, all followed by pavlova! 

Well fed and watered and nearly time for bed it is time for a little star gazing in the Southern skies, now that the sandflies have also gone to bed.  Again a totally amazing view as we are miles from any kind of light pollution.

We sleep very well in our cabin and are up early to see the sun gently coming up over Blanket Bay where we moored up for the night.  After a good breakfast we are all outside watching the amazing scenery as we slowly make our way back up Doubtful Sound for the return trip, seeing more wildlife on the way including penguins native to the area.

Amazing views of Doubtful Sound in the morning

We are all a little sad as the boat pulls in and it is time to get back on the bus for the return journey.  We say our fond farewells to Captain John, Leyton and Heather.  As we reach the DOC power station exhibition to wait for the return boat we see Captain John meeting the next group of people – perhaps we could go again for another night?  A truly fantastic trip and as we wave goodbye Captain John is still smiling as he has been since he picked us up yesterday.

Mrs M.