Sunday 9 September 2012

Backstreet Benares...

Another early start this morning - I thought I was done with 4:30am starts for this year !

We head down to the river with Dada for sunrise and see people having their early morning bathing in the river.  We know its monsoon season, and the river is full, but the water looks like it has been dredged out the bottom of a filthy pond.



After this we then head over to one of the cremation sites.  Varanasi is one of the most spiritual places for Hindus and it is the only place in India that bodies are cremated 24 hours a day.  We are not sure about visiting a cremation but decide that we should, and stay briefly as Dada explains some of the details of what is going on.

We then head back for some breakfast, through the impressive Benares Hindu University campus.

After breakfast we meet our second tour guide - Jeremy or J.  J is an American who moved to India 15 years ago to be a social worker.  After becoming disillusioned he bought a motorbike and lived in the Himalaya learning Hindi with a guru, and subsequently taught at the BHU.  He now runs walking tours of Benares.

J's tour was amazing as we walked through bits of Benares that your regular tourist wouldn't get to.  It should be pointed out however that as these streets are so narrow, and there is no rubbish collection system, coupled with that large number of cows on the street meant that the smell on this tour was unbelievable...
We were looking at one particular house when the owner popped out, after a few minutes of banter in Hindi from J we were invited in to look round.  J had neither met the guy before or seen his house !

We were also charged by some cows, got lost in some narrow streets that not even J had been down in 11 years, and had a thoroughly interesting time.

After a quick cool drink to refresh us we all jump into a Tuk Tuk and head back to the hotel. 

Another amazing trip as we feel like we have seen the 'real' Benares rather than just the touristy bits.

Mr & Mrs M 
  
  

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